How dirty is Everest? The Everest Clean up Debate
A debate about dirty mountains is a good thing. And no, Everest is not the only mountain with rubbish in the world, the problem well spread.
As the highest mountain in the world, Everest will always get more attention than others. So Everest is chosen to be cleaned, more than others. Some expeditions just do it to get attention and funding to climb it, others really try to do something good. It’s easy to question all these initiatives, and perhaps, the money spend by climbers to climb a mountain, could be spend more wisely. But if we raise that question, then everything we do for our own entertainment can be questioned isn’t it? Where do we draw the line then?
I personally don’t think that it’s a good idea to say to climbers: “don’t climb anymore because you destroy the mountain”. I think it’s better to get a dialogue started about how the climbing community could minimize their impact and perhaps, spread awareness about even more important issues and raise money to support local problems. If a team of Everest climbers is able to get funding for this, then that might be a good thing. Even if personal interest get mixed up. Or does it makes some of us jealous because we spend so much private money on our own expeditions?
Anyway, there are many people trying to do something good. Perhaps the road to perfection is difficult and unclear, but at least there are some people trying to make the world a better place. Let’s not just drop a few firm and populist phrases here, it’s better to start a real dialogue! We all know the famous words of our favorite Asian philosopher: “every journey of a thousand miles, starts with a single step”. Let’s just do that and keep this dialogue going…
More info? See: http://www.muchbetteradventures.com/news/view/168/how-dirty-is-everest-the-everest-clean-up-debate
Press release Everest Cleaning Project 2010
A short summary of 2 months carrying down garbage by our Sherpa team during the Mt Everest clean up expedition last Spring…!
What’s upcoming…?
While most Everest summitters around the Globe are slowly getting back to their ‘normal’ life again, the organizers of the EEE cleaning expedition are still fulltime occupied with their successful expedition last spring. Coming Friday a press conference is scheduled to share their results, past and coming activities with us all.
In the mean time 60 pictures of the clean up activities have been selected which will be exhibited next month in one of Kathmandu’s major art galleries. Apart from that, Nepali artists and 1 French artist have started to blossom their creativity to make something extraordinary of the garbage that was brought back to Kathmandu. Their ‘rubbish art’ 
will be available to show from coming November. For those who are in Kathmandu this November, come and have a look…! (address details will follow)
Clean up Expedition in Dutch paper
Barely landed in Holland a Dutch newspaper called to write and publish an article about the cleaning expedition Namgyal has organized last spring.
For those who can read Dutch, have a nice read! For those who can’t, it also contains some of our pictures NRCNext_0610
Garbage well delivered in Kathmandu
Some time has passed, so several updates to give you!
The second team indeed summited May 23rd, while sweeping many Kgs of mainly old rope, tents and oxygen cylinders. In total 1800kg has been brought down to the BC, apart from the 2 dead bodies which were brought to and picked up at camp 2.
Of this pile of garbage, 1000kg of disposable rubbish has been left in Namche where it will be processed. The remaining 800kg has been flown back to Kathmandu last week.
Interesting detail… May 29 the Hillary-Tenzing marathon has been held; all the way from BC to Namche. Several runners did show their valuable support to this clean up expedition by taking a special designed bag with them, loaded with 2 kg of ‘our’ garbage. Two of our Sherpas (Pasang C and Kurma) even joined these running heroes, showing that they are real athletes… They were actually the only two who had ‘ran’ from 8848m all the way to Namche ! So from here, we would like to thank all ‘garbage pickers’ for their prestige!
The coming weeks art students will make some interesting pieces and creatures of these materials and exhibit the result in a local gallery. We’ll keep you updated where you have to go!
Also, 100 pictures of the expedition and rubbish will be shown at an exhibition soon from now. The exact dates and location… you still get it from us.
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First steps towards Everest BC
Stuck at the national airport for 30hours, we finally were able to fly to Lukla; the main start of expeditions and trekkings in the Khumbu/Everest region. Starting to feel very unlucky at that time, we now can say that we must have been very happy to actually have been able to fly, finally! All our possible flights were cancelled, some of them while boarding (how demotivating…) because of too much wind, cloudy weather, a nonfunctioning radar system and a broken antenna. Not a good thing if you ask me… !
, although it’s everything but a burden to have to be around here, mandatory! Besides learning to breath again, these weeks will be used to spread the word for the activities of the Climbing for Water Foundation (www.climbingforwater.org / http://climbingforwater.blogspot.com ).First Sherpa team summited!
The first Sherpa team summited Mount Everest yesterday, 22 May 2010. Among the summiters was Namgyal Sherpa, project leader of the clean up expedition, setting his total at 8 times.
The second Sherpa team is heading to the summit today, after which both teams will go up again to retrieve an enormous quanitity of oxygen bottles and old ropes.
More details to come soon!
Bodies & garbage below 8000m
Climbing Mount Everest is a physical and mental game. Even when you’re able to cope with the daily physical challenges of climbing at extreme altitudes, you’re still depending on uncontrollable aspects as ‘weather’. As you might know, the summit of Mount Everest lies within the infamous Jet Stream, which is a constant hurricane wind force of around 118 Miles per hour at 4 – 6 miles above the earth. When the Jet Stream is blowing on Mount Everest’s summit, a long stream of ice crystals forms the characteristic white plume from the tip of the mountain. If you really wish to stand on the summit, you have to choose your moment very carefully, until the monsoon pushes the jet stream away. Lucky for us all, the weather window has existed on Everest with great consistently for many years. The length of this opportunity can vary, though. In some cases the duration is a about 2-4 days while in others years it can last a much preferred two weeks from mid to the end of May.
Now back to the expedition!
Weather forecasts have been predicting the weather window to open, which in fact was true, although it just lasted for two days somewhere around the 10th of May. A few ‘lucky’ or very wise climbers went for the summit and actually succeeded. In the mean time the Sherpas where still preparing camps up to the south col. They also made preparations to bring down some dead bodies. Well, especially this caused some very mixed feelings within expedition outfitters and members in the base camp. As the expedition organizers repeatedly put in the media that they planned to bring down the bodies of famous climbers like Scott Fisher and Rob Hall, even without agreement of the relatives, some people got a bit frustrated and nervous. Tension in base camp! In the end, the Sherpas only made preparations to bring down the Swiss climber Gianni Goltz who died on the mountain in 2009. In the mean time, the Russion climber Serguey Duganov died May, 7 2010 at 7800m during his descent of Lhotse. Again, the Sherpas were requested to bring down this body, which they did after negotiating with the expedition outfitter and the insurance company. As you can guess, it’s a risky and costly operation, which almost made some new victims during the operation. Finally, both bodies where brought down by a team of 8 and 10 Sherpas to camp 2, from where a special Fishtail helicopter is to pickup the bodies and bring them further down. A third body that was found near base camp was identified as a missing Sherpa who died in 2009. His remains have been brought down to Gorak Shep for his delayed funeral.
Besides bringing down the bodies, the team has also decided to collect garbage below 8000m. About 600-800kg has been brought down to display in the base camp. Although this was not the goal of this expedition, it’s just incredible to see how much garbage has been left in the base camp and especially around camp 2. There’s enough garbage for cleaning expeditions for the coming 50 years!!! It’s just a big mess of old ropes, broken tents, tins, ladders, clothes, shoes, old food, wrappings, sun creams, gas cylinders, stoves, pans, human waste, etc, etc. Most of the garbage has been thrown in crevasses to get them out of sight, however, as more snow and ice is melting, the garbage simply appears again, creating a very sad sight of our expedition history.
Then what is happening right now?
Up till now, the weather has just not been good enough to climb to the summit and to bring down the garbage above 8000m. In fact there have been some fierce, short storms, destroying tents in base camp, camp 2 and camp 3, leaving some teams with even more work.
It seems that May 17 might offer a small and difficult opportunity, but it’s likely that most expeditions will wait for a longer window to open from 21th of May up to 26th of May. As a result, so many climbers at the same time may cause problems below and above the Hillary Step. Even more when old ropes have to be cut and brought down. Let’s see what happens…
Everything packed for Everest!
I’ll give you some… 
A struggle for power and money…
Time goes fast when you’re having fun… and fun it is! It’s just great to see the scene behind the curtains of this project. There’s laughter, shouting, crying, frustration and happiness, but above all, it’s a lot of hard work!
Anyway, let’s give you an update.
As you know, this project is a Nepali initiative. Beside us (reporters), there are no foreigners involved. It’s also a non-commercial project, so beside some very low earnings for hard work and huge risks, this team of Sherpa’s is not earning money from it. Everything is funded by Nepali companies, private money as to say. Beside a free permit from the government (hopefully), no government money is involved. So, basically, this is a project by the people and for the people. And you know what? That’s just not good enough! Oh no! Something very important is missing: politics! Like most projects that create a lot of positive media attention, there must be a struggle or fight (behind screens) about power. Who will be the one who gets the credits… Will it be the Sherpa team itself? The sponsors? The government, or are there more parties involved. To be honest, yes there are, although we hardly know who they are and what they really want. One thing is clear, there are powerful people who use their strength to make things difficult. These people will avoid the spotlights, but will do everything to destroy or to receive credits. Politics, power, money… it’s war, with powerful, but invisible and scared people.
Beside the politicians, there are the parasites. Yep, like always . Let’s have a better look at somebody who has setup a really nice project to inspire children by fulfilling his own dream, climbing the seven summits. It actually works these days… Put the word ‘Children’ in a mission statement and a whole row of rich companies nervously scream to sponsor such a great initiative. Children are great advertising, much better than a green environment or reduction of CO2. We do it for the children! Ok, the point is, that parasites always try to make use of another. They need the other to survive. And when it’s about survival, there are no restrictions, there’s no shame, no values. As long as you get what you want, that’s all that counts. So that’s why this Swiss person, who goes from top to top, used this project to have his permit fee waived, off course without any agreement, approval and acknowledgement. Nice smiling and talking at the front side, cheating at the back side. Parasites are always a pain in the ass…
Ok, enough about the negative side, there’s also positive news: the preparations have almost finished and the first loads of equipment are on its way to base camp. Hopefully the government and sponsors keep their word and deliver what they promised, then everything will be fine. Then another stage will start, the fight at the mountain itself…
Cu later!
The Hierarchy of needs…
Organizing and joining an expedition is like checking off all levels of Maslow’s pyramid, although in adverse order…
It clearly all starts with ‘self-actualization’; for this specific project with a very clear ambition to ‘do good’. To even start thinking of that (in this case; cleaning a mountain), you should feel confident about yourself combined with that activity; climbing Everest. Otherwise forget all that extra effort! So there is the ‘Esteem stair’. Then, one starts to think with whom he/she would like to undertake this challenge by creating a team (‘Belonging’). The penultimate level (Safety) is getting more close to the basics (resources, unsurances, getting fit, etc) and eventually, on the mountain, it all channels back into physiological needs (do I pee enough?, Can’t hardly breath!, I’m hungry!, I need to rest!). So, organizing such an event forces one to stand still and master all those stairs (mostly simultanously).
To make a long story short; this week our ‘homes’ for the upcoming weeks were secured. Here it works just differently than just simply enter a shop and buy some tents. For many expeditions, tents are made on order instead, or in some cases are purchased 2nd hand.
Some time ago Namgyal heard some rumour related to the last option; a set of 2nd hand high quality tents would be for sale, which was left in Kathmandu by a previous expedition. Last week we’ve had a look at those tents to check if the quality would be high enough to take these with us and if the model is suitable to household minimum 2 persons including ca 80kg luggage (and that they call; living from a kitbag/suitcase!).
The shop concerned was situated in one of the tiny and crowded streets in Kathmandu’s Asan area (local market). Not any tourist would probably pay any attention to these kind of shops and enter one of the huge ‘big name shops’ (e.g. North Face, Mountain Hardwear) instead, but actually that’s a pity. These kind of small shops are completely packed with many interesting gear. You’ll find complete downsuits, oxygen masks and cilinders, jackets, many pairs of expedition boots, ice axes and so on, mostly 2nd hand. It’s a very exciting environment, especially when you realize all this gear has (probably) already been to the place you are just heading to!
To check the tent properly it should actually be pitched somewhere, isn’t it? So, that’s exactly what was being done: just in the middle of the dusty market surrounded by all kinds of horning vehicles and shopping people. Not that handy; the tent contained 7 poles of 3 different lengths, so it took some time and a lot of laughter to get a proper dome shaped tent out of these poles and inner tent. Actually I got a real flash back of camping holidays during my youth; always surrounded by fighting couples while pitching their tent Unfortunately this particular tent unveiled it’s previous intensive use by having a huge hole in the inner tent and this wake up call was the start of checking them all very carefully.
In no time 5 (very) eager Sherpas were ready to assist and suddenly started to sort out all outer tents, poles, inner tents, ground sealings; simultanously though…. Thank God there exists something like a marker which enabled me to finally keep the right inner tent combined with the matching outer tent again. Although I could read from their faces (and in a few weeks I might agree on that) why for God’s sake it should be that important to use a bag with nr 5 holding actually tent nr 5; if THAT is going to save you high up there…! But you know, we more or less already lost eachother on that pyramid here…
Anyway, the damaged pieces were collected; holes and zippers were immediately stitched and replaced by the neighbour (sewing shop); the pieces were brought back and finally checked by us again. Sometimes this circle made some extra rounds (it’s really interesting to bring a tent with a small hole to the sewer and actually get it back with 2 big holes and a broken zipper….!) . As you may imagine, it was quite a logistic party, but finally we (8 dusty faces) made it and bought the whole set of 15 tents.
For sure, after this kind of labour intensive purchase you’ll appreciate your ‘dome’ even more while staying in the camps…!
Cleaning up Mt Everest; is it any use?
For a long time, climbing expeditions have been leaving (some) used gear (tents, oxygen, wrapping materials, etc) behind on Everest or other mountains. So there are ‘cleaning up expeditions’ so now and then. Are these expeditions a good idea? What do you think? And what about de dead bodies? Should they be removed, too?
Like you now by now, we’re involved in a major clean up expedition of Mt Everest in the next month’s. It has been a huge struggle to get the government and the private sector involved. Yes, for financial reasons, but to make the right decisions and policies about this matter. We’ll see how it goes, at least it’s already a huge experience!
Mountain Consult supports Everest Cleaning Expedition 2010
Mt Everest, with 8848m, the highest mountain on the planet. A living goddess for different religions and cultures. This beautiful mountain is also known as the highest pile of garbage in the world. Now, let’s say that this is a bit exaggerated, but it’s true that many international mountaineering expeditions and climbers have left their used and broken gear through the years. We’re talking about tents, oxygen bottles, gas cylinders, wrapping materials, climbing rope, etc. Besides the garbage, several dead bodies still remain at different places on the mountain. The Nepalese people are aware of it, they don’t like it and they feel embarrassed. With the tourism year of 2011 ahead, one experienced high altitude Sherpa decided to do something about it…
Namgyal Sherpa, the Nepalese project director, has been leading a project team of highly driven Nepalese professionals to setup this new cleaning expedition. Their goal? To clean up everything above the death zone (8000m). That’s easier said than done, in fact, it’s a very difficult undertaking at a very extreme altitude. That’s why they called it the Extreme Everest Expedition.
The expedition is planned in April/May/June 2010 and 20 experienced climbing Sherpa’s are included. There is only one ‘but’… and that’s the money. Will they be able to get enough money to finance this national project? Yes, the government and private companies are already involved, but it’s still a long way…
We’ll be in Kathmandu and on Everest as independant reporters to write about this great Sherpa initiative. Let’s see how it goes and let us know what you think!
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Eveline Wessels
