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Airplane crash Jomson

KATHMANDU, MAY 14 -
A 9N-AIG Dornier of Agni Air crashed in Marfa VDC-5 near Jomsom Airport in Mustang district on Monday, killing 15 people. Six people survived the crash.

Airline officials said 18 passengers and three crew members were on board the flight that had left Pokhara for Jomsom.
See more: http://www.ekantipur.com/the-kathmandu-post/2012/05/14/top-story/agni-plane-goes-down-in-jomsom-15-dead/234858.html


Flood disaster in pictures

On Saturday 5 May 2012, flash flooding in the Kaski district of northwestern Nepal resulted in the death of at least 28 people, left dozens more missing, and caused great loss of property including homes, businesses, crops, and livestock. Many people have been asking us more information about the disaster and… if it would affect their planned treks and climbing expeditions. In most cases it’s not been necessary to cancel or changes these plans, but if you have any doubts or questions, please contact us so we can look into your plans specifically.

Now, about a week later, official parties have travelled to the flood affected area to make a preliminary assessment about its source and possible causes. Have a look at some pictures of the area at the website of ICIMOD (The International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development).

What type of flooding are there?

Cloudburst – Short duration intensive rainfall is the most common cause of flash flood in the Himalayas. Real-time and near real-time precipitation (rainfall) information from direct observation stations and remote-sensing based rainfall estimation can be used in early warning systems to reduce the loss of lives and properties. However, the early warning system has to be accessible and understandable to the communities at risk.

Glacial lake outburst floods – Glacier thinning and retreat can result in the formation of new glacial lakes and the enlargement of existing lakes due to the accumulation of melt water behind loosely consolidated end moraine dams. Such lakes are inherently unstable and can be subject to catastrophic outburst. There are very few, small glacial lakes in the catchment east of Mount Machhapuchhre and they are not considered potentially dangerous. About 21 of the 1,466 glacial lakes mapped out in Nepal are considered potentially dangerous. The Government of Nepal carried out mitigation activities to reduce the GLOF risk in Tsho Rolpa glacial lake in 2000. ICIMOD, together with Nepalese institutions, has carried out detailed investigations of some glacial lakes and their downstream areas. ICIMOD is currently assisting Nepal’s Ministry of Environment and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Nepal to develop a project proposal for reducing GLOF risk through mitigation and early warning systems in Imja and Tsho Rolpa glacial lakes.

Mountain Consult Team


Happy Buddha Jayanti

Happy Buddha Jayanti 2069

Buddha Jayanti, a term known as Lord Buddha’s Birthday event, is on 24th of Baisakh 2069 according to Nepali calendar. Gautam Buddha, a founder of Buddhist religion, was born on 624 B.C. He is also known as Shakyamuni. Shakya which means “royal” is his royal family name and muni means “able one”. As a young prince, he was named as Siddhartha Gautam and later on became Lord Gautam Buddha after his attainment of enlightment through long time hard meditation for several years… Being a human being too, he is considered as God as a same way like Lord Jesus due to his teachings and moral principles that consist of positive values to everyone worldwide. Gautam Buddha is also known as a symbol of peace.

It’s the most important day for his followers all around the world as they get to worship him as a ritual ceremony. His teachings and ethnics have a great impact on the millions of people worldwide. Buddhism has also impact on the influence of 43 cultures around the world. His eight steps of happiness are very famous and have great influence on mankind. Lord Gautam Buddha‘s eternal moral principles stop the one from sin and negative behavior causing positive attitude and thinking towards each other. People of almost every culture especially Mongolians celebrate this occasion as a great worship day of Lord Buddha with pure mind and heart.

Around Kathmandu valley of Nepal, this festival is especially celebrated in places like Buddhism centers, Buddhist monasteries, Swayambhu, Boudha and so on… by Buddhist monks and the followers including general people. Buddhist tourists from the world are also attracted to participate and visit such places on this special occasion with a great due of feelings and respect towards Buddhism.


Major avalanche on Everest 2012

A major avalanche has swept the western slopes of Mount Everest at the 28th of April. It injured at least one Sherpa guide and panicked hundreds of climbers trying to reach the world’s highest peak.

The avalanche swept the slopes late in the previous afternoon near the Camp 1 area, about 6,100 meters (20,000 feet) altitude. One Nepalese Sherpa guide was hit by the avalanche and was flown to a hospital in the capital, Katmandu. Namgyal Sherpa (Director of Mountain Consult and Helicopter Rescuer) performed around 16 flights together with Fishtail Air in the last two days…

More information to come soon!

www.mountainconsult.com


Happy Nepali New Year 2069

Dear friends, we wish you a really great, adventurous and happy New Year! Let’s make 2069 a year we’ll never forget! Maybe the turn around year for Nepal?

Mountain Consult Team
www.mountainconsult.com


Happy Holi 2012!

It’s time for a very colourful Indian/Nepalese celebration

In Kathmandu, Nepal it’s celibrated at 7 March 2012. Outside Kathmandu and in India it’s celibrated at the 8th of March. But what is it? Well, Holi is the Hindu festival that welcomes the Spring and celebrates the new life and energy of the season. Although Holi has religious roots, not much religious activity is involved in its celebration. Holi is one of the most energetic Indian/Nepali festivals, filled with fun and good humour; even the strict rules of separation between castes are abandoned.

Holi is also called ‘The Festival of Colours’, and people celebrate the festival by smearing each other with paint, and throwing coloured powder, water and dye around in an atmosphere of great good humour. Especially girls and women are targets for water and paint balloons, not always fully appreciated…


Mountain Consult Photography Training

Photography Training for Mountain Consult’s Climbing Sherpas

Feb 13th, 2012

The first session of Mountain Consult Photography Training got underway today. An initiative of Mountain Consult’s Photography Department and School of Creative Communications, this training session will see the participation of 13 climbing Sherpas from Mountain Consult. These hard mountain sherpas who regularly travel places that are next to impossible for ordinary folks to reach will be trained to take professional shots of the spectacular places they visit. Among the participants are Everest and other 8000+ peak summiters. The photography workshop will run for seven days, during which participants will be taught the basic and given theoretical and practical lessons by Deependra Bajracharya (Program Officer, School of Creative Communications ), Nadia Neupokoeva (Head of Photography Department, Explore Himalaya) and Namgyal Sherpa (Head of Photography Department of Mountain Consult). This photography training is jointly supported by Nepal Tourism Board, HATT (Himalaya Academy of Travel & Tourism) and School of Creative Communications. Mountain Consult organizes such photography training to the interested mountaineers as well as trekkers every year. This program is introduced for the development and progress of the mountaineers and trekkers in joint association with NGO and INGO. The training such as videography has also been provided to our members since 2010 and is still on the way. Anyone related to the trekking field can participate in this session before every season. The number of persons is limited to 15 in a session.


How fit should I be for a trek or expedition?

Well, from our experience within Mountain Consult we can say that you should be fit for most treks and definitely all expeditions.

However, It is a misunderstanding that you need the be a real athlete. We have seen so many not really physically fit people starting on treks or even trekking peaks who succeeded and enjoyed themselves greatly. It is a mental issue, too. Depending of the difficulty of the trek or expedition, you should have a reasonable to a extremely good physical and mental fitness. But it is not a game where it is all about winning or loosing. So, just think about the daily activities you have deal with. If you can handle these activities and you can recover during a nights sleep, then you are probably fit enough to enjoy yourself. Some mental skills that are more difficult to train are: focus, persistence, team spirit, flexibility and the ability to overcome set backs.

So, to answer the question ‘how fit should you be?’ we need to look at the most important physical and mental challenges you might face during a trek or expedition:

Physical challenges

  • long walks and/or climbs (ascend/descend for 4-18 hours) through hilly and/or mountainous terrain (rocks, snow, ice);
  • use of unfamiliar equipment: tents, camping gear, (climbing) equipment, etc;
  • carrying a light or heavy (day) pack;
  • sleeping on a hard(er) and colder surface;
  • sitting, resting, eating in more difficult positions;
  • dealing with extreme weather conditions;
  • etc.

Mental challenges

  • dealing with foreign cultures;
  • dealing with foreign food or food that is prepared differently;
  • dealing with possible diseases, illness, dangers & accidants;
  • being dependent on and responsible for a small group of people (day and night);
  • dealing with little to no privacy;
  • dealing with personal fear and insecureness.
  • etc.

If you can deal with these challenges more or less, you are probably fit enough!


Miles Levin foundation to visit Khotang

Coming March Namgyal & Armand join Richard Keidan of the US based Miles Levin Foundation during a revisit to one of their project sites in Khotang, home district of Namgyal.

Purpose of the visit is to meet the local NGO  ‘Creative Porters Society’ to discuss a new proposal to Khotang’s development concerning Health & Education. The new proposal may extend the existing project that was started in 2010, focusing on providing water & sanitation (toilets), land for a school and a sponsor program for poor children. The visit will also be used to reevaluate the progress of the existing project.

In April we’ll post more information about this visit and its results on this blog. If you’re interested to support a project in Khotang or the Miles Levin Foundation, please contact us at: info@mountainconsult.com or visit: www.miles2nepal.org.


Happy Lhosar 2012 (Tibetan New Year)

Happy Lhosar to everybody! Today a new Tibetan New Year has started in the Himalayas.

Lho in Tibetan language means ‘year’ and Sar means ‘new’. Lhosar, also known as Tibetan New Year is celebrated mainly by Tibetans for fifteen days. The main celebrations take place on the 1st 3 days. On the 1st day, a drink called changkol is made from chhang (similar to beer). The 2nd day of Lhosar is known as King’s Losar (gyalpo losar). Lhosar is traditionally preceded by the five day practice of Vajrakilaya. It often falls on the same day as the Chinese New Year (sometimes with one day or occasionally with one lunar month difference).

Lhosar is culturally more related to Tsagaan Sar in Mongolia than the Chinese New Year festival.

Although Lhosar is mainly celebrated by Tibetans worldwide, it is also celebrated by some Yolmo, Sherpa, Tamang, Bhutia communities, like in Nepal.

Lhosar celebrations predates Buddhism in Tibet and can be traced back to the pre-Buddhist Bön period. However, Losar later evolved into an annual Buddhist festival which is believed to have originated during the reign of Pude Gungyal, the ninth King of Tibet.


Nepal slowly warms up


The Himalayas of Nepal slowly wake up by the warming sunrays of a new Spring. Although still very fragile, temperatures are rising steadily; 16 to 19 degrees in Kathmandu! A new trekking and climbing season is on its way!!!


We all wish you a really great and adventurous 2012!!!

Let’s hope we’re able to turn this world into a safe and happy place for everybody, no matter what race, religion, nationality, wealth or education. In the mean time, we hope your life will be adventurous, here in the Himalayas and far beyond! Happy New Year!


Prices increase for Tibetan expeditions

The Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association & the Chinese Mountaineering Association announced an increase in their prices per January 2012. As every company has to organize their Tibetan treks and expedition through the CTMA / CMA, it will affect all of us, companies and clients. The reason for this price increase is due to the fact that the exchange rate of USD to the RMB is continuously increasing under the background of global economy turbulence, while the USD is the currency that is used  to settle the account for a Chinese/Tibetan expedition. Moreover, the prices of commodities in China are continuously increasing. These two reasons forced the Authorities to adjust the cost for expeditions from Jan 1st of 2012.

Because of these changes, we also have to recalculate our current prices. We hope to finish this as soon as possible. We’re sorry for any inconvenience…


Nepalese cooking class with Mitho Restaurant

Visiting Kathmandu in Nepal?

Well, why don’t you consider a Nepalese cooking class? Having good food is one of the best things in life, especially in pleasant company. Add ‘learning how to cook’ to it and we guarantee you will have a fun and even a useful time! We encouraged our good friend KB, owner of Mitho Restaurant in Kathmandu, to setup a simple, but special cooking class. We have tried to convince him to put some educational stuff into it, some fun, good food, drinks, interesting people and a cozy athmosphere. We love to invite you to taste, learn and prepare Nepalese dishes with them at their cozy restaurant in Kathmandu. Meet new friends, learn, cook and eat together, we’ll be around, too!

Have a look at their website at: http://mithorestaurant.wordpress.com or visit their Facebook pag: http://www.facebook.com/mithorestaurant

Contact owner ‘KB’ (Kibby) to setup a private cooking class!!!

Mountain Consult Team


USA cancels Travel Warning for Nepal

KATHMANDU: The U.S. Department of State has cancelled the Travel Warning that was most recently issued on January 12, 2011.

The U.S. Embassy is pleased that the overall situation in Nepal has improved to such a degree that this decision could be made. By issuing a press statement on Wednesday, Public Affairs Section Embassy of The United States, Maharajgunj, Kathmandu has stated that the Travel Warning issued about a year ago has been cancelled in recognition of the improved conditions in Nepal.

Great news!


Nepal’s glacial area depleted by 21 percent in 30 years

A Kathmandu based international organization working in the environment and climate change sector has stated that Nepal’s glacial areas have been depleted by 21 percent over the past 30 years.

Have a look at three summarizing documents:

The full reports can be downloaded here: http://www.icimod.org/?q=5934

Here’s a written summary:

The International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) stated this recent data in a report, “The Status of Glaciers in the Hindu Kush-Himalayan (HKH) Region” which was released on Sunday during Mountain Day, a convening of mountain experts, policy makers, and climate change negotiators on the sidelines of UN climate talks which is ongoing in South African city Durban.

According to the press release issued by ICIMOD, findings of a three-year Sweden-funded research project led by ICIMOD was able to tally the number of glaciers in the HKH region-more than 54,000-and measure the area covered, 60,000 km.

In the Everest area, the data show a marked acceleration in the loss of glacial mass between 2002 and 2005. Glaciers appear to be shrinking in both the central and eastern Himalayas. Country-specific studies have found that depletion of glacial area over the past 30 years was 21 percent in Nepal.

Of these 54,000 glaciers, however, only ten have been studied regularly to determine the net loss or gain of ice and snow (called the mass balance). That handful of studies shows a loss of mass balance, with the rate of loss roughly doubling between 1980 and 2000 and 1996 and 2005. In the Everest area, the data show a marked acceleration in the loss of glacial mass between 2002 and 2005. Glaciers appear to be shrinking in both the central and eastern Himalayas.

The HKH, home to 30 percent of the world’s glaciers and this region’s glaciers and snow breathe life into the regional monsoon system and feed the headwaters of 10 major river systems that stretch across eight Asian countries-Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, China, India, Myanmar, Nepal and Pakistan.

The HKH region is one of the world’s hotspots for global warming. The rise in temperature has been greater at higher altitudes and more pronounced during the cooler months than in the warmer months. This imbalance narrows the seasonal variation in temperature, potentially favoring some plant species over others and already having impacts on agriculture. Warming across the region is greater than the global average of 0.74°C over the past 100 years. However, this change is not evenly distributed. It is most pronounced in higher altitude areas like the central Himalayas and the Tibetan Plateau. In Lhasa, for example, temperatures increased by 1.35°C between 1950 and 1980.

Meanwhile, other two reports released at the same programme also cite problems of climate change, snow and glacier melt in Asia’s mountainous Hindu Kush-Himalayan (HKH) region-site of Mount Everest and many of the world’s tallest peaks-highlight the region’s extreme vulnerability to climate change, as rising temperatures disturb the balance of snow, ice and water, threatening millions of mountain people and 1.3 billion people living downstream in Asia’s major river basins.

“These reports provide a new baseline and location-specific information for understanding climate change in one of the most vulnerable ecosytems in the world,” said Dr Rajendra Pachauri, Chair of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC). “They substantially deepen our understanding of this region – and of all mountain systems – while also pointing to the knowledge gaps yet to be filled and actions that must be taken to deal with the challenge of climate change globally and to minimise the risks from impacts locally.”

The three reports published by ICIMOD provide the most up-to-date compilation of information on the current status of climate change in the HKH region and the first authoritative data on the number and extent of glaciers and the patterns of snowfall in the world’s most mountainous region.

The region offers livelihoods to the 210 million people living there and indirectly provides goods and services to the 1.3 billion people living in river basins downstream who benefit from food and energy. Rich in biodiversity, the region is home to some 25,000 plant and animal species, and contains a larger diversity of forest types than the Amazon. Yet despite an abundance of natural resources in the region, poverty is rife. HKH countries account for 15 percent of the world’s total migration.


Lhotse 8516m; the mountain with a view

Lhotse Expedition 2012
In spring 2012 Mountain Consult organizes another Lhotse expedition; the fourth highest mountain in the world and is located opposite of Mt Everest’s South face

The famous South col at around 8000m actually connects Mt Everest and Mt Lhotse to eachother, which means that  expeditions to both mountains follow the same route across the Khumbu Ice Fall and the Western Cwm to camp 3 at the Lhotse face. On the way to Everest’s Camp 4, just above the Yellow Band, the Lhotse route takes another direction. From here, the Lhotse climb becomes much more difficult due to the very steep ice and rock sections in the Lhotse couloir. But the result is amazing, without doubt, you’ll get the best view on Everest from this 8516m high viewpoint.  A great expedition if you’re a fit and experienced climber. Oh, there are a few extra advantages, Lhotse’s climbing permit is much cheaper than Everest and there will be no crowds on the mountain from Camp 4 to the summit!

Interested to join? Have a look at our webpage with much more information: http://www.mountainconsult.com/programs/expedition/nepal_lhotse_expedition.asp


Join our Everest Expedition 2012!

Join Mountain Consult’s upcoming Everest Expedition 2012. This expedition will be guided by Namgyal Sherpa, Mountain Consult owner and one of Nepal’s best Everest Guides, mountaineer and mountain manager who has summited and guided Everest expeditions already 9 times. Besides Everest, Namgyal has been operating high altitude expeditions within the Nepal and Tibetan Himalayas for more than 15 years. Namgyal is a very friendly, charismatic well connected Sherpa with excellent leadership skills and extensive mountaineering knowledge and experience. The expedition is Western led by at least one of Mountain Consults co-owners and high altitude climbers Armand Dirks or Eveline Wessels.

For spring 2012 Mountain Consult has put together another strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, all with extensive climbing experience on Everest and other 6000, 7000 and 8000 mountains in the Himalayas.

Start date: 1 April 2012 / End date: 5 June 2012 / Summit Pro package / Maximum members: 8 persons / Cost: € 20.000,00

What you need to know: it’s small, professional and environmental friendly
From the beginning we have pushed ourselves to organize our expeditions as environmentally friendly as possible. This means that we only operate in small teams that hardly impact the environment and cooperate as a family. We only use professional equipment used in a very friendly and relaxed base camp setup or high camps, designed to operate without leaving a trace.

The food…, my god!
Mountain Consult’s food menu’s are designed by Eveline Wessels herself, Mountain Consult’s own food scientist and almost professional cook! Eveline and our Sherpa expedition cooks have designed a wide variety of tasty and energetic meals that are well balanced, nutritious and healthy. In case you have special food wishes or demands, you are always able to discuss it with us so we can make arrangements for your specific wishes… It’s also good to know that we love real food! Nice, fresh, organic, local vegetables, fruits, cheeses and meat all from the clean and healthy Sherpa land. Off course we also need a few imported items, but even these are chosen for its quality of health and taste!

Keeping it clean, reducing our impact
The past is gone! While expeditions in the past just left their equipment and food behind in base camps or higher up the mountain, we make sure to bring everything down. No matter if it’s equipment, food, oxygen bottles or even our personal waste. Besides that, we also contribute our share of equipment, man power and money to establish the fixed ropes and to clean up the old ones. Another thing to minimize our impact is the use of solar equipment instead of generators. For us this all is just a very logical thing to do, as we really love to climb in a clean mountain area.

Less is more
Like we said, we only operate with small teams. We truly believe that ‘less is more’. When it concerns safety, overcrowding, atmosphere, personal attention, contact with local people, Sherpa crew and summit success, small groups definitely are in favor. Your chance to stand on the Everest summit in a pleasant way increases in a small team. Smaller teams are more flexible and because of that, better able to make use of the weather windows as they may open quickly and only for a short time. To get the most out of your expedition, we believe that everyone should be able to make a second summit attempt. That’s why we operate our Everest expeditions in 65 days time, we stock our camps with sufficient gas, food and spare equipment and off course enough oxygen, with buy back guarantee!

Climbing Everest at realistic costs
We understand that nobody wants to spend more money than necessary. Any Everest expedition is expensive, no matter how you organize it. There are very expensive and luxurious expeditions, there are very basic, cheaper expeditions. We believe that it’s all about the total climbing experience. The experience should be a safe one, well organized, guided by friendly and experienced people, good equipment and great food in family atmosphere. Off course, this has a certain price, but definitely not the highest! We pay decent salaries to our staff, but we try to keep things realistic as well. We’re not aiming at high profits ourselves, we aim at client satisfaction, at a positive Himalayan experience that will last forever! That’s more important to us than anything else. As climbers ourselves we know exactly how it is…

Download the trip notes for additional information

Or have a look at the description at our website!


Everest Base Camp via Gokyo & Cho La

So now and then we publish a new trip! This trip is a great alternative for the normal route to the Everest Base Camp. As you know, Everest base camp is a very inspiring place. It is the starting point for the ascent to the world’s highest mountain. Many people gave their lives to get there, many of them started in this base camp. It is a place of natural power and an emotional and spiritual place of happiness, frustration and sadness. During this journey you trek through the Gokyo valley trek across the Cho La pass to the base camp of Mount Everest. This trek is more demanding than the normal route to Mount Everest, but also much more varied. You climb Gokyo Ri (5357m), visit the Gokyo Lakes, cross the Ngzumpa glacier and Cho La (5420m). After the ascent of Kala Pattar (5554m) and a visit to the Everest Bae Camp we’ll trek back to Lukla and Namche Bazar via the beautiful normal route. An adventurous and challenging variation on the normal route to Everest Base Camp. Highly recommended!

Have a look at our website: http://www.mountainconsult.com/programs/trekking/nepal-gokyo-chola-everest-basecamp-trek.asp

Mountain Consult


Dutch alpine climber Ronald Naar dies on Cho Oyu

Back from Everest and Lhotse, we just heard the news about the tragic death of Dutch alpine climber Ronald Naar (56) at Cho Oyu on 23th of May 2011.

For me, Ronald was my inspiration to climb mountains when I was young. It al started for me after I had seen his slide show presentation of his Everest ascent. It opened my eyes, it was a very inspiring and motivating example. I’m sure Ronald must have had the same influence on many people. Now his soul has found peace in one of the environments he loved the most, mountains. It’s sad news. Especially as the entire expedition is just a few kilometers away from Kathmandu. His body will be transported to Kathmandu and onwards to Amsterdam by plane. It’s sad news.

We all wish family and friends a lot of strength.

Mountain Consult Team


Climbing for Water’s Everest High Tea

Two years ago, Eveline Wessels and Armand Dirks decided to use their climbing expeditions to spread awareness about water problems in mountain areas and the areas downstream. During their last expedition to Lhotse they organized a real High Tea at the Everest South Col (8000m) as a special kickoff event for their 7 Summits for Water project. Mountain Consult is the logistic partner for this kickoff event and for Climbing for Water’s Everest Expedition in 2015 as part of their 7 summits quest. As soon as the expedition is finished we’ll publish some more information and pictures about this special event at our blog!


Indian Jogabyasa Bhoi summits Mount Everest 8848m

Jogabyasa Bhoi, at the right, summited Mount Everest at May 19th at 10.00AM. With this achievement he’s become one of the first Indian climbers of the state of Orissa who stands on the summit of the highest mountain of the world. Congratulations! More info to come soon…


United Paintings in place on summit Mount Everest

Unfortunately, we cannot offer you a witnessing picture of it, but… the United Paintings of American cartoonist Lurie have been put on Mount Everest Summit at 10.00AM at the 19th of May 2011! Congratulations to all who have been involved in this great achievement. More info to come asap.


United Paintings on their way to Everest summit

15 May 2011, the already famous art pieces of the American cartoonist Lurie are on their way to the Everest Summit. The art pieces with a weight of around 17kg are carried by three Sherpa’s led by Namgyal Sherpa who summited Everest already 8 times. The summit day is set on 19 May if the weather and the mountain allows it. More info to come soon…


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