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Press release Everest Cleaning Project 2010

A short summary of 2 months carrying down garbage by our Sherpa team during the Mt Everest clean up expedition last Spring…!


What’s upcoming…?

While most Everest summitters around the Globe are slowly getting back to their ‘normal’ life again, the organizers of the EEE cleaning expedition are still fulltime occupied with their successful expedition last spring. Coming Friday a press conference is scheduled to share their results, past and coming activities with us all.

In the mean time 60 pictures of the clean up activities have been selected which will be exhibited next month in one of Kathmandu’s major art galleries. Apart from that, Nepali artists and 1 French artist have started to blossom their creativity to make something extraordinary of the garbage that was brought back to Kathmandu. Their ‘rubbish art’    ;-)  will be available to show from coming November. For those who are in Kathmandu this November, come and have a look…! (address details will follow)


Clean up Expedition in Dutch paper

Barely landed in Holland a Dutch newspaper called to write and publish an article about the cleaning expedition Namgyal has organized last spring.

For those who can read Dutch, have a nice read! For those who can’t, it also contains some of our pictures ;-) NRCNext_0610


Age limits for climbing Mt Everest

Recent summit attempts of teenagers have caused a lot of debate in the climbing community.  In 2001, sixteen year old Temba Tseri Sherpa (Nepali boy) became the youngest climber to summit Everest, although he lost a few fingers and toes because of frostbite. Last spring (May 2010) the record was taken by Jordan Romero, who ascended World’s highest mountain at the age of 13!

As a response to the tendence of taking very young climbers above the Death Zone (plans were already there to bring a 11-year old next spring), the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) has issued new regulations since 2 weeks for climbing Mt Everest. As from June 10th (2010), two age limits will be set to climb Everest from the north side: a minimum age of 18, and a max of 60. Exceptions can be made for climbers providing positive medical records but 16 will still be the absolute lowest limit according to CTMA. 

The CTMA’s decision was welcomed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), who already set a minimum age of 16 after Temba’s summit push. In Nepal the maximum age to climb Everest is not restricted.

Pro or con? Let us know…


Garbage well delivered in Kathmandu

Some time has passed, so several updates to give you!
The second team indeed summited May 23rd, while sweeping many Kgs of mainly old rope, tents and oxygen cylinders. In total 1800kg has been brought down to the BC, apart from the 2 dead bodies which were brought to and picked up at camp 2.
Of this pile of garbage, 1000kg of disposable rubbish has been left in Namche where it will be processed. The remaining 800kg has been flown back to Kathmandu last week.

Interesting detail… May 29 the Hillary-Tenzing marathon has been held; all the way from BC to Namche. Several runners did show their valuable support to this clean up expedition by taking a special designed bag with them, loaded with 2 kg of ‘our’ garbage. Two of our Sherpas (Pasang C and Kurma) even joined these running heroes, showing that they are real athletes… They were actually the only two who had ‘ran’ from 8848m all the way to Namche ;-) ! So from here, we would like to thank all ‘garbage pickers’ for their prestige!

The coming weeks art students will make some interesting pieces and creatures of these materials and exhibit the result in a local gallery. We’ll keep you updated where you have to go!
Also, 100 pictures of the expedition and rubbish will be shown at an exhibition soon from now. The exact dates and location… you still get it from us.


Namgyal in National Geographic!!!

Mountain Consult - View from EverestThis month, National Geographic has printed a special edition focusing on water problems seen all over the world. One of Namgyals stunning pictures taken from the summit of Mt Everest (overlooking all main glaciers in the Khumbu and beyond) has been chosen to support the text of one of their articles. The article titled ‘The Big Melt’ points at the fact glaciers in the Himalaya feed Asians greatest rivers, serving as freshwater lifelines for 2 billion of people. However, ice and snow started to decrease rapidly…

Would like to take a glance at the 3 page picture and/or read more…?
National Geographic
Special Issue: Water-Our Thirsty World
P60-63: ‘The Big Melt’

World’s highest dental clinic

In the meantime we went to the ‘Highest Dental Clinic of the World’, as they call it here. Every equipment is donated, from dental chairs, plastic gloves, to (almost expired) anesthetics. The charming wooden lodge-style clinic almost vanished away 2 months ago due to a huge fire at the neighbor’s place, so they had to search for the still usable tools. Everything non-usable stuff in developed countries can be sent to here and you know what…? It’s still really good; we are throwing too much away!
Anyway; good and bad news; Armand’s problem was so severe that they actually didn’t want to do more than providing antibiotics, which means that we will go up again to give it a try.

Since my teeth never give any problem (knock knock on oak wood; or do only the Dutch understand this habit ;-) ?), I didn’t insure them, which means that I’m free as a bird where to do my check ups. So why not here?? For the first time in my life I heard enthusiastic Ohhhs and Ahhs, pretty nice ego lift (although it’s something so uncontrollable as the hardness of your enamel :-) ) After some scratching, showing their own jaws (…) and my first polish treatment ever we went; me with a real Hollywood smile ;-)

Further spend a (Nepali) fortune on painkillers and several antibiotics to fight the viruses which happily nested in my lungs and nose and let the BC know they can expect us around May 7 or 8 again. We are pretty done with counting the raindrops here and have the feeling that the treatments have booked their first success!

So… next update from the BC!


First steps towards Everest BC

  Stuck at the national airport for 30hours, we finally were able to fly to Lukla; the main start of expeditions and trekkings in the Khumbu/Everest region. Starting to feel very unlucky at that time, we now can say that we must have been very happy to actually have been able to fly, finally! All our possible flights were cancelled, some of them while boarding (how demotivating…) because of too much wind, cloudy weather, a nonfunctioning radar system and a broken antenna. Not a good thing if you ask me… ;-) !

 Anyway during a window of less wind, 4 of our team were able to jump into the plane and feel sick for the entire 30min. Gosh, what a wind indeed… Only after landing we could finally uncross our fingers; a terrifying crash of 2 years back at Lukla still fresh in our memory. While writing, I learned that it would have taken another 24h before any other flight would have reached Lukla (this time because of a strike)!
 
Two of our team are staying behind in Lukla to collect the first 1000kg of equipment and materials for the Clean up Expedition (http://extremeeverestexpedition.blogspot.com ), which will be sent somewhere these days from Kathmandu, as well as to  arrange porters or yaks for this horrible load…
Armand and I will already go further up, to get properly acclimatized before reaching the BC in 2 weeks. Not really a good predisposition to be born below sea level when you are interested in these kinds of trips ;-) , although it’s everything but a burden to have to be around here, mandatory! Besides learning to breath again, these weeks will be used to spread the word for the activities of the Climbing for Water Foundation (www.climbingforwater.org / http://climbingforwater.blogspot.com ).
Walking and talking; actually the best publicity!  

The love of a (wo)man goes through…

e past 2 weeks Armand and I scheduled a ‘boot camp’; crossing fully packed 3 valleys linked by high passes. The route was beautiful and the result was there: we reached Gorakshep (the last village before Everest Base Camp, EBC) completely fit, strong and hungry (Yes! Good sign on altitude).

Therefore it was quite easy to find our camp April 25th (at that time not more than 1 kitchen tent, toilet tent and 3 sleeping tents): we just followed our rumbling stomachs (maybe echoed by an avalanche at the background J ) towards the damps of the best dhal bhat in ‘EBC town’. Although lots of expeditions proclaim to have the best cook, I want to claim the title this year…
Our kitchen is like a restaurant, especially since we still were with the 6 of us at that time (in 5 days the team would be extended with 20 more persons; goodbye very luxury!!). There is all kinds of food and hot drinks on order, tasting like in heaven (I suppose…) and volumes that do hurt your stomach. What a transformation after a period where you had to pay Rs1750 (ca 20 euro) for a pot of black coffee! Who did say Rome is expensive?!
Just to give you an impression how our kitchen looks like (internet connections on the way are SOOOOO slow that the window has already expired before you can actually upload some text, let’s not mention pictures…);
The house-shaped tent (with cozy plastic windows) is completely stuffed with boxes of food items (750-1000kg in total), including 300kg of rice, 350L of gas/kerosene, 60kg onions, 60kg of sugar, 2 sqm of eggs and … a tower of canned beer. What?? Yes; ‘to offer to the Gods’. Right… At least they (the Gods/Goddesses) won’t have any occasion to get grumpy to us; it must going to be a jolly scene up there I suppose ;-)

Project Push

On week further since the last update, but project wise suddenly we’re much further.
It was badly needed though; several proceedings stopped or were canceled.

There have been negotiations with a TV channel, specifically focused on Everest news, to make an appealing documentary to broadcast the piece to at least 15 countries. Potentially very interesting of course for both parties… However the negotiations finally collapsed on (what’s new) money. During the project a lot of parties, organizations, NGOs and individuals were positive after being consulted to sponsor. Some became very inspired and excited to cooperate or even had approached the team themselves to get involved. However, when it comes to payments, it’s peoples nature to become less and less enthousiatic, like the exciting thrill is suddenly gone. We’ve seen and still experience this most of the time and start to get used to it. Nothing is final, up to the first paisas, unfortunately!

The coming 72hours will be very important for the breakthrough of this Clean up Expedition Project.
The project have been waiting for a very long time to get support from the Ministery of Tourism; a major prerequisit for the main sponsors to secure their support. Quite a struggle! Although always to be expected, it still surprising how much urge for power and individual visibility is involved, even in these kind of charity programs (or maybe better to say especially!). Anyway, although not completely confirmed, the Ministery has agreed to proceed in their support (yes, step by step, little by little; it tests your patience ;-) ).

Anyway, the main sponsors have now agreed to start their first payments these days. Excellent news, since many equipment and services for which deposits were paid, can now be finally collected/arranged and paid off. It enables the team to send the first 1000kg to Lukla already early this week.
At this moment we are waiting with 4 persons to fly to Lukla, to secure the first arrangements. Have been hanging around unsuccessfully at the national airport already the entire day yesterday, and continue hoping, reading, even more reading today. Hope to bring you the next news for a higher altitude!

Also upcoming is the press conference for this Clean up initiative. Already scheduled for weeks before, but now ready for the Big Bang… To be expected Tuesday; stay connected!


Everything packed for Everest!

Just ended our big packing and checking morning.
I’m still puzzled how an empty kitbag can seem so huge, while packing your belongings it seems to become smaller and smaller :-(
 
The sleeping bag which should keep me warm till -49C took already one third of the space! Can’t tell you how often I got a reaction these days of people (Nepali as well as Western) who were completely horrified and flabbergasted; they can’t even name a single reason why you would go up to stay in this cold voluntary and actually also have to pay money for that…
Also in the bag are ordinary stuff like climbing gear, climbing boots, several down clothes, special socks, 2 mattresses, sunblock factor 80(!), Thermos and covers for that, face mask, 3 pair of gloves, 3 pair of sunglasses for all different purposes (yes… horrible, normally I never wear any!) etcetcetc.
 
I must admit that I also bought myself some luxury items, but I call them ‘absolute required luxury’ ;-) I’ll give you some…
First of all; chocolate! Candy bars, tablets and Nutella as well. About the quantity of this black gold; if I have to count it in monthly Nepali salaries I’m getting a little embarrassed here ;-)
Also a ‘must have’ is a pair of warm booties to stay warm in the rocky BC and to avoid scratching the expensive and somehow fragile climbing boots completely open before you have even started your climb! My favourites for this cold environment are boots from Canada; people there are so used to live in extreme cold half of the year that I totally rely on their designs and trials!
Next are a few books to fill the acclimatising and rest days in the BC (actually every extra gram which is not reserved for equipment can you see as ‘luxury item’), tasty tea (Moroccan mint, yummie) and not to forget some Kenzo perfumed body lotion; the environment is barren enough already :-)
Last but not least, some flyer material for the Climbing for Water Foundation. Didn’t check our upcoming activities yet??? Please do at http://www.climbingforwater.org and/or http://climbingforwater.blogspot.com
 
Not sure if the yak who will devotedly transport all my stuff to the BC must be happy or not, but at least it will get a hug from me, as well as a delicious snack (besides grass, what’s a Yak’s favourite candy…anyone???).
 
CU tomorrow. X

Base camp blues…

 

During our first day we started to prepare the rest of the camp together: hammering ice to create ‘flat’ camp spots, shoveling rock screw, collecting big stones to build tables, ‘sofas’ etcetc. During the night we felt that the flat camp areas could have needed some more perfectionism, feeling like lying on an Auping bed that has been lifted at both extremities simultaneously, or just only in the middle (both not comfortable I can tell you). That mixed with the fact that you7r fundament (glacial ice) is cracking like hell it always takes some nights before you can say “I slept” (leave alone the superstitious ‘well’).
Anyway! We also started to practice to get used to the many ladders we’ll need to cross in the Icefall. Some close contacts with the ‘Icefall Doctors’ (Sherpas preparing the Icefall route) resulted in a private ladder in our camp; a real eye catcher for peasants it seemed.
And further…. Wait…. The consulted Lamas proclaimed that our Puja (the spiritual kick off of an expedition from the BC) had to wait for 9 more days. And without Puja, no Icefall entry… Ohhh gosh, then the days get long, and cold L With a daily window of ca 2h without snow and/or wind you have to get very creative how to spend your day, stay warm and cheerful. Nicknames for each other were soon created, play cards were fully booked and dull books became real page turners. And the strange thing is; you become SO tired, extremely tired! The event of the day was always the arrival of more load; grabbing porters out of the snow to dribnk a cup of tea with and tear the stuff from their backs, curiously like opening your Xmas box of food items.
In no time we could extend our camp with more tents, mountains of personal kitbags of all climbers, more food and… a generator! Powerrrrrrrr!!! We soon discovered that the required petrol was not there yet to run that Ferrari-red engine, as well as no laptop and light bulbs for which that machine was actually bought. It felt like a nice wrapping paper covering an empty present L
Actually, we’ve had some major Cargo challenges due to bad weather. Some loads had therefore be to be walked in from Jiri, another 7 days away, causing supplying delays. Amongst it; oxygen (maybe that’s what the Lamas must have been feeling!).
And then… I became sick…  Not AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), no diarrhea, no… an ordinary sinusitis (very painful at altitude). And the horribly morbide thing is… also our medicines were still on the way. Since your body doesn’t recuperate well at that altitude (it’s all about prevention; passed station) AND the Puja was still days ahead, Armand and I decided to go down for a few days. To some greenery and bright sun.
Only 2 hours on the way Armand’s jaw decided to join my misery, forcing us to go all the way down to visit a dental clinic (what a couple we make…!).
So, here we are; right back to where we’ve started almost 3 weeks back; watching the planes come in and out! I must admit; it was a little mental crash for me.
Now I try to look it from the bright side; going to treat ourselves with curd, fresh bread, apple pie, coffee and some strong antibiotics we will strengthen our bodies for the coming 3 days to finally walk back and go up again. Fingers crossed it will be the magic recipe… no more time to waste!

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